November 24, 2025
The drive into South São Tomé is an unforgettable two hour journey from the capital, provided you are properly prepared. This South São Tomé guide will help you plan the perfect trip to explore the island’s most dramatic southern region. Your best bet is to leave early, stop at Boca Inferno on the way down, reach the south, visit Rolas, and then see the sites you missed on the way back. This means you will hit the equator in the daylight and see Pico at its best.
While the roads are fundamentally safe, a low-clearance vehicle will significantly add to the stress and risk of the journey. For this reason, we consider securing a high-clearance vehicle hire non-negotiable for exploring this region. To make the journey comfortable and stress free, we strongly recommend securing a reliable four wheel drive from our vetted partner before your arrival. This ensures you maintain control over your schedule, essential if you plan to catch the early boat to Rolas Island by the recommended 9:00 am departure.
Driving back at night can be challenging, especially if you have an early start and are tired. Try to leave the South by about 3 pm to give you the best chances of hitting the best roads by the time night falls. Budget a full day for the round trip, allowing for mandatory stops at scenic viewpoints like Boca Inferno and other highlights featured in this São Tomé travel guide.
Beyond the potholes, the greatest unseen threat is the deep drainage ditches lining the road shoulders. These are frequently obscured by overgrown undergrowth, making them invisible and risking serious axle damage if a wheel drops in. A similar, non-road risk is posed by the incredibly fine, powdery beach sand found along São Tomé’s southern beaches. If you find yourself stuck in either a ditch or the sand, locals are always quick to help pull you out using muscle power and branches. Tourists must be prepared to offer a fair cash payment as thanks for this time and effort. This vital community interaction is part of the reality of driving in South São Tomé.
Punctures are a very real possibility. A spare tire is essential, and you must ensure your hired vehicle has all the necessary tools before you leave the capital. No car hire company (including ours) provides roadside service for punctures, but locals will always assist with the fixing. While there have been a few isolated reports of children letting the air out of tires in Porto Alegre and cheeky asking for Dobras to help fix them, this is not considered a common or frequent scam, and your focus should be on ensuring your spare is good to go.
Final Security Note for Porto Alegre: When you leave your car in Porto Alegre to visit Rolas, security is paramount. While break-ins are very rare, the people are happy and friendly, it is best practice to leave nothing on the seats, and make sure that the boot can be clearly seen in so nobody wonders what is inside. Porto Alegre has limited parking and high traffic; locals will happily help you find a safe place to park, often at a boat owner’s house, so keep your eyes open.
Tourists must be hyper-aware of children running out from the dense forest onto the road with very little road sense. Keep your speed low, particularly when passing Roças or village clearings. Additionally, every time a tourist vehicle passes in South São Tomé, children will often call out for sweets (or rebuçados in Portuguese). It is crucial to not engage or give out sweets, as this action, while seemingly kind, encourages absenteeism from school and diverts children from their education.
Ethical Community Support: Instead of roadside handouts, we encourage you to support the children whose parents insist they attend school. Get in touch with us. We collect parcels of books, pens, and other supplies from tourists and distribute them to classes in schools in all areas of South São Tomé. This ensures that your valuable support contributes directly to education, which is the route out of the poverty trap.
This approach to responsible travel in São Tomé helps visitors make a genuine positive impact on local communities while exploring the island’s stunning southern region. By supporting education rather than encouraging roadside begging, travelers become part of the solution that benefits São Tomé’s children long after your visit ends.
As you drive through the South, you will frequently see local people washing clothes in rivers, often under bridges, and laying them out to dry on the side of the road. You must treat these clothes as a driving hazard, just as you would potholes. If an oncoming vehicle prevents you from passing without driving near the clothes, wait. Your tyre could ruin a school shirt that a parent fought to pay for, causing a significant economic setback to a family.
Regarding photography, while locals are generally happy and will not object if you stop, remember this is not a spectacle; it is everyday life. They know they are poor. We ask that you observe with respect and avoid gawking or pointing, as this can undermine their dignity.
The South of the island is a strict CASH ONLY zone. This is a crucial logistical point that cannot be overstated. Once you pass the major northern towns, there are NO ATMs, banks, or reliable card points for the remainder of your trip through South São Tomé. You must carry sufficient Dobras from the capital for all fuel, food, accommodation, and tipping needs (including for local assistance with vehicle recovery). This cash-only reality is one of the most important practical considerations when planning your journey to south São Tomé.
Fuel Logistics: You will not find formal petrol stations in the South, not a problem if you fil up in the city. Fuel is typically sold on the side of the road in small bottles or containers, which comes with a premium price due to the distribution effort. Always top up your tank in the capital before starting your journey through south São Tomé to ensure you do not run out. Understanding these fuel realities is essential for safe travel in this remote region of São Tomé and Príncipe.
Formal, clean public restrooms are non-existent on the South Road, so planning your initial stop is vital. For a final clean rest and reliable meal before hitting the remote roads of south São Tomé, we highly recommend the bar/restaurant located on the right as you leave the city and turn toward Boca Inferno. It offers clean facilities, cold beers, reasonable food, and great views over the sea. This stop is perfect for an early morning breakfast or coffee, ensuring you have the necessary comfort and sustenance before your journey into the southern region. Many travelers find this last comfort stop essential when driving south São Tomé, as facilities become increasingly basic beyond this point.
Pico Cão Grande (Dog Peak) is the iconic volcanic needle of São Tomé and the visual climax of the Southern journey. This dramatic landmark is one of the most photographed attractions in south São Tomé and a must-see for any visitor exploring the island’s southern region. The main viewpoint offers the most breathtaking, unobstructed views of the peak and features amenities such as souvenirs, drinks, and coconuts. This area is laid-back and free of aggressive touts, making it a pleasant and easy stop.
While viewing from the road is standard, it is possible to walk further up to the base of the peak, but be aware this requires going through dense plantations. This route is not formally maintained and may offer sightings of unique wildlife, such as Civet Cats. Fun fact: these cats are not endemic, and you may find them occasionally ending up on local BBQs. If you are sampling local street cuisine, just remember to be careful—it may not have clucked before! Appropriate footwear, mosquito repellent, and caution are essential for this walk into the interior of south São Tomé.
Situated between the Pico Cão Grande area and Porto Alegre this tiny lived-in stop above the Cascata de Praia Pesqueira waterfall is a local secret that is easily overlooked.
Known locally as Na Cascata or Mioba (formally Complexo Mioba) it makes for a perfect relaxing lunch during your journey through south São Tomé.
The Experience: Forget glossy menus you eat what is served that day usually fresh fish cooked slowly but well accompanied by rice fries or banana. This is a local restaurant, and while the food is amazing you can’t expect European levels of service and availability. The best seats are outside on the terrace offering a direct view across the curtain of water. This authentic dining experience represents the real character of south São Tomé, far removed from tourist-focused establishments in the capital.
Protocol & Safety: Upon arrival local children will appear to informally “guard” your car for a few Dobras. Be aware they can be a little annoying and will often come to the restaurant waving to ensure you do not forget them. A quick chat with the staff will help get rid of them. The children will often ask for 100 Dobras or so, claiming there are five security guards. The going rate is 20 Dobras for the group. Take small notes and give 5 or 10 Dobras to three or four children, avoiding the inevitable teenager in charge.
If you choose to walk down the narrow path to the lawn be extremely cautious the wooden steps and railings are rickety so hold on and take your time. This low-key stop is essential for experiencing the authentic side of South São Tomé and understanding local culture beyond the typical tourist trail.
Alternative
Access Note: The falls can also be accessed easily from the village on the other side via a road leading down to it. This route is friendly but prepare to be mobbed by locals and children who will put on a vigorous display of somersaulting from the rocks, expecting tips for the show.
Ilhéu das Rolas (Rolas Island) is the small island just off the southern tip of São Tomé, famed for housing the marker of the Equator Line. Visiting Rolas is one of the highlights of any trip to south São Tomé. The journey starts from the village of Porto Alegre, and the ride across takes about 20 minutes.
The Boat Hassle: As you approach Porto Alegre, expect to be immediately approached by individuals offering crossings at highly inflated prices. The most honest and reliable pricing is found by walking directly into the village and politely negotiating with boat owners. The fair rate is typically 1,000 to 1,500 Dobras per crossing. Always agree on the fee before boarding.
Battery Beach Access: If you head to Battery Beach, be prepared to swim in, as boats often cannot drive up onto the sand. The tide running onto the beach can be ‘fun,’ but safe. Remember to take waterproof bags, such as North Face duffels or Patagonia Black Hole type things, to protect your belongings.
The Equator Path: Guides are available in the village, but the path is not difficult to navigate, though it is poorly signposted (which supports the local guide market). To go solo, take the path out of the village and head uphill (look out for the pigs that run everywhere, they are fun, lively characters!). Take a right fork as you go up. If you find yourself reaching an ecological garden display on your left, you have walked too far. Turn around and take the left-hand fork up the hill, near a permanently closed wooden booth.
Honesty & Trust: At the top of the path, you may find an honesty stall selling small souvenirs where you drop cash in a box. This demonstrates the profound trust local people show to tourists and is a part of our love for our islands.
Eating and Drinking: In the village you will find a small bar on the right hand side as you enter, with a restaurant just opposite it. It is a nice place to stop for a beer, but it is a little more expensive than the mainland. While the food is good, be prepared for island service levels. On a recent visit, staff chased me down to the boat asking for payment just for sitting and waiting, so be aware that service expectations are very different here.
The South Road is home to some of São Tomé’s most significant Roças, offering a window into the island’s cacao and colonial history. Exploring these historic plantations is essential for understanding southern São Tomé’s cultural heritage.
Roça São João dos Angolares: This Roça is famous for its exceptional high-end restaurant often considered the island’s best showcase of local cuisine. It is a perfect, unique lunch stop. The experience is elegantly rustic; expect the service to be charming but check your handwritten bill carefully, as minor administrative errors have been reported. The restaurant has, overall, positive feedback, but a look at review websites shows that some have had issues. Friends have told us it can be good, it can be bad, a case of you pay your money and take your chances.
Visiting Protocol & Fees: Roças in the South generally do not have formal ticket booths. While you can wander the grounds yourself, you will be quickly approached by local guides who expect payment. To be fair and comfortable, we recommend budgeting a negotiated fee/tip of around €10–€15 (or the equivalent in Dobras) per visit, paid directly to the venue who assists you. This is a vital contribution to the community.
Further Reading: For a deep dive into the architecture, history, and types of Roças, see our dedicated Cacao Heritage Page.
